First Tastings of New Fall New York Restaurants

Bloomingdale Road

“The menu is designed for the table to share,” our waiter at the new Bloomingdale Road announces.

I look at the list of “snacks” just above “small plates and sandwiches” and “soup and salads.” “How many smoked deviled eggs on the plate?” I ask.

“Three,” he says.

“But we’re four.”

“You can always get two orders,” he responds.

“I don’t need six eggs.”

“Well, they’re big and you can cut them in half.”

“But then I’ll have six halves. How about the suckling pig meatballs?”

“Three,” he says grinning. “I could just bring you four anyway.”

“Bring us four and charge for the extra meatball,” I instruct. “And we’ll have four chowder shots too.”

This is not just another lineup of comfort food. It’s playpen time. It’s the homey and weirdo hour. We have chicken lollipops-Buffalo with blue cheese fondue. Country ham is roasted with Coca-Cola. Everyday fries? Not here. Smoked fries, Old Bay fries and bone marrow fries. The tuna ribs are chili and honey glazed. Country-fried quail comes with…

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